It’s rather
convenient to have a palace courtyard in which to exercise at night. I don’t go
to a gym. Usually I swim but the local Olympic sized pool is closed thanks to a
hunk of concrete roof falling into the pool two months ago (see my blog “And
then the Roof Fell In”). I have thus taken to riding Daisy Belle 2 around the Cour
Napoleon and the Cour Carrée of the Louvre. Insulated from traffic sounds and
sheltered from the worst of the wind and rain by the deep walls of this palace,
I am doing my circuit training in the most extraordinary historic environment,
far from modern banality.
Tonight was no
exception. I powered through the Cour Napoleon, past the glittering glass
Pyramid and up the slope that leads via a long arch into the Cour Carée. The
Louvre itself dates back to the medieval times when Paris was confined largely
to the Isle de la Cité. The stern towers and prison like walls of Philippe
Auguste’s Louvre (meaning defensive fortress) situated to the West of the Cité
were demolished in more enlightened times and replaced in stages by the glorious
Renaissance edifice that is the Louvre today. The transformation from stark
fortress to sumptuous palace dates back to Francois I whose own residence was a
rather modest little mansion in what is now the south west corner of the Cour
Carrée, one end of which overlooks the Seine. Marie Stuart played here as a child.
Since her days, Henri IV, Louis VIII and Louis XIV added to that building to
create the square called the Cour Carrée—meaning Square Courtyard—keeping to
the Italian Renaissance style of the original François I palace.
This is where I
speed around on Daisy Belle 2. Tonight a niggardly drizzle needles my face as
we circle the central fountain and ride in a wider arc closer to the walls
where the lighted windows of the ground floor reveal displays of antiquities. I
pause to admire the eight black marble statues of the lion headed Egyptian
goddess Sekhmet, who in her role as the destroyer goddess of ancient Egypt removed many an evil
leader or exposed a corrupt practice.
As we circle
over wet slabs (avoiding very bumpy cobbles) we are accompanied by the strains
of a lone cellist whose classical repertoire enriches our ride. The lighted
galleries around us (kept open for the cleaners) reveal painted ceilings where
cherubs and buxom ladies drift against angelic turquoise skies. These Renaissance
works of art are part of the building itself. But, inside and outside, the
Louvre takes a lot of upkeep, which is why the North façade has been shrouded
in scaffolding for almost a year.
Our views as we
flash around the central space also includes glimpses through the arch that
looks south towards the Seine, of the gold trimmed cupola of the Academy Français, poised on
the Left Bank end of the Pont des Arts. Another, to the West, reveals the
Pyramid, glittering with reflections from internal lights, and a third the
delicate tower of St Germain d’Auxerrois whose carillon chimes the hour. Not
now though because I am riding in the late evening. In a few minutes at 10pm
the huge iron gates that open onto the Cour Carrée from the four arches will be
closed.
Daisy Belle
speeds me back to the Cour Napoleon, past the romantic cellist whose profound
gaze and divine music follow us through the arch. We take a few turns around
this vast wet space. The fountains are switched off as the hour of ten arrives
but one can still hear the gurgle of the overflow via the artificial weirs that
empty the black pools surrounding the Pyramid into who knows what Stygian
reservoirs.
We pass under
the small Arc de Triomphe going West towards the Tuileries, out onto the rue de
Rivoli and past the gilded statue of Joan of Arc on her horse. In moments Daisy
Belle is back her own stable in the Place Marche St Honoré and I walk the couple of
blocks to my street. As during our ride through the palace courtyards, there’s
hardly anyone around. A welcome glass of champagne awaits me after I pull off
my damp clothes. A November night’s work out in the heart of civilization: it
beats sweating it out in a stuffy gym.